When you see this climb, you’ll wish you had a crash pad for the first few bolts. The rock looks like dried mud that begs to not be climbed, but what the hell, right? Say a few prayers before you leave the deck and hope you reach the much more trustful rock in the upper portion of the climb. Although the rock looks like junk it holds up really well and doesn't feel crumbly.
Climb up the first few bolts on big jugs until you reach a block under a small bulge. Traverse out right and stand on the block looking for holds on the bulge. The crux of the climb comes near the top pulling through the bulge but it is really just one move. You can bail out right and make it a bit easier on yourself but the bulge move is quite easy. Above the bulge is easy solid slab up to the anchors to climbers left.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.