When you see this climb, you’ll wish you had a crash pad for the first few bolts. The rock looks like dried mud that begs to not be climbed, but what the hell, right? Say a few prayers before you leave the deck and hope you reach the much more trustful rock in the upper portion of the climb. Although the rock looks like junk it holds up really well and doesn't feel crumbly.
Climb up the first few bolts on big jugs until you reach a block under a small bulge. Traverse out right and stand on the block looking for holds on the bulge. The crux of the climb comes near the top pulling through the bulge but it is really just one move. You can bail out right and make it a bit easier on yourself but the bulge move is quite easy. Above the bulge is easy solid slab up to the anchors to climbers left.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.