When you see this climb, you’ll wish you had a crash pad for the first few bolts. The rock looks like dried mud that begs to not be climbed, but what the hell, right? Say a few prayers before you leave the deck and hope you reach the much more trustful rock in the upper portion of the climb. Although the rock looks like junk it holds up really well and doesn't feel crumbly.
Climb up the first few bolts on big jugs until you reach a block under a small bulge. Traverse out right and stand on the block looking for holds on the bulge. The crux of the climb comes near the top pulling through the bulge but it is really just one move. You can bail out right and make it a bit easier on yourself but the bulge move is quite easy. Above the bulge is easy solid slab up to the anchors to climbers left.
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jan 26 2020, 8:56 am PST
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The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.