A bolted climb that you don’t hear much about yet is another quality sport route to be had in The Marsupials. Rated a 5.11a in the Watts book, it felt a little softer than that.
As a few climbs do in this area, the rock at the base of the rock looks pretty bad but it feels solid. Enjoy big jugs at the start of the climb that quickly give way to a techy nubbins move about one third of the way up. Once through the first crux rest in huge huecos before a second crux near the top that has you move left on small holds before gaining a rail. The climb always has holds where you want them and in a manner that doesn’t feel contrived, overall a really underrated climb that should be fun for climbers of all types.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jan 28 2020, 11:56 am PST
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The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.