A bolted climb that you don’t hear much about yet is another quality sport route to be had in The Marsupials. Rated a 5.11a in the Watts book, it felt a little softer than that.
As a few climbs do in this area, the rock at the base of the rock looks pretty bad but it feels solid. Enjoy big jugs at the start of the climb that quickly give way to a techy nubbins move about one third of the way up. Once through the first crux rest in huge huecos before a second crux near the top that has you move left on small holds before gaining a rail. The climb always has holds where you want them and in a manner that doesn’t feel contrived, overall a really underrated climb that should be fun for climbers of all types.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.