A bolted climb that you don’t hear much about yet is another quality sport route to be had in The Marsupials. Rated a 5.11a in the Watts book, it felt a little softer than that.
As a few climbs do in this area, the rock at the base of the rock looks pretty bad but it feels solid. Enjoy big jugs at the start of the climb that quickly give way to a techy nubbins move about one third of the way up. Once through the first crux rest in huge huecos before a second crux near the top that has you move left on small holds before gaining a rail. The climb always has holds where you want them and in a manner that doesn’t feel contrived, overall a really underrated climb that should be fun for climbers of all types.
Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Apr 11 2021, 5:56 pm PDT
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Current Conditions: Fair
Wind: North at 13mph
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The Sterling Hollow Block is great at biting down on ropes when tying friction knots using a Prusik, Klemheist, or auto block. Its Aramid fiber construction helps resist abrasion and heat. Pony up a few extra bucks to have one hanging from your harness, you’ll end up using it.