To Live is to Die is located high up the south side (climbers right) of Koala Rock. To reach the base of the climb you have to hike up a crappy scree field up and around towards the back of Koala Rock. Unfortunately the belay stance is on sloped ground that isn't 100% stable due to the scree. It's good enough but not the most comfortable hangout of all time. The climb itself starts out fun on huge jugs through the first 3/4 of the climb. Start by moving from right to left through the first three bolts before moving straight up a bolt line made up of glue-in bolts.
The crux comes near the top by making a strenuous clip on holds that turn small and somewhat awkward with hard to find feet. From there work your way up on junky looking rock to one more awkward clip before gaining on a mini-ledge and clipping the fixed draw anchors. The last quarter of the climb moves from solid hueco holds to suspect looking blocky rock that is covered in dark lichen. The last few bolts are the crux of the climb and the rock can you leave you feeling a little suspect over it's quality.
The climb is worth doing if you are in the area but I wouldn't make the hike out for this climb given the rock it finishes on as well as the crappy hike up the scree field and belay stance on the sloped ground.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Sep 18 2019, 10:56 am PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.