This route sits to the right of Cool Air and offers a similar type of climbing. Expect bomber crimps and edges most of the way with an obvious crux halfway through that requires a strong move to a crimp. The rock up top is some of the strongest and sharpest rock you will find in the park.
There are two starts to the climb, with the harder line starting on the ground directly in line with the bolts. The easier start is to traverse left into the climb from the rock perch closer to the first bolt. Either way, the climbing up to the halfway point uses crimps and small feet before reaching the crux. A strong left hand and foot allows for a reachy crimp out right that is small and still requires a few more moves before making the clip. Finish up on sharp but strong rock on small crimps and incuts up to the anchor.
This climb had permanent Metolious draws for anchors the last time we climbed it.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 20 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.