A multi-pitch adventure that links 3-pitches to the top of Koala Rock, this is a must do climb in the area and worth the hike up to the area.
Pitch 1:There are two ways to reach the first set of anchors. For a fully bolted adventure, climb Suck My Kiss to the first set of anchors. Suck My Kiss is a means to an end and is not all that enjoyable of a climb. If you brought your trad gear, the first gear pitch of Thin Air is a must do. Perfectly incut crimps dance back and forth a finger crack that takes good small gear placements. Work your way up under the roof and pull over the bulge for a big knob romp on low angle rock to the a two bolt anchor. The first trad pitch is great climbing and felt no harder than 5.8 trad for Smith with great holds the entire route. Lion's Jaw felt like a much more stout 5.8 trad lead compared to Thin Air.
Pitch 2: Work your way off the anchor block up and over a thin start to a slabbier face with small holds and feet until you gain another ledge with a set of anchors
Pitch 3: Again, the hardest climbing comes straight off the anchors on the third pitch by having to crank over a bulge with air beneath you. It's possible to clip the first bolt without making any real move off the ground, which adds some comfort. Pull over the bulge and work your way up to a final slabby headwall with nice exposure and incuts to sink into until you reach the top of Koala Rock.
Descent: Walk around to the back side and make a single rappel to the ground
The opening trad pitch of Thin Air
Thin Air from top to bottom
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.