Ryan's Arete is a Smith Rock classic. The Watt's guidebook has the climb graded at 5.10c but it felt harder than the nearby Buffalo Power which also goes at 5.10c. The climb is located up the south side of Koala rock and starts in a shallow corner before the bolt line trends right and stays just to the right side of the arete above. There are numerous bolt lines nearby so be sure you follow the correct line.
The climb starts out with some crimp and crack action before gaining the face to the right of the arete. This is where the best climbing takes place with crafty moves that feel committing to reach your next bolt. The movement is tremendous with difficulty steadily building all the way to the anchors. Technique is required to get locked into the right position. While having strength and endurance is good, proper technique will get you through the final moves to the two bolt fixed draw anchor. An all around great climb!
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Sep 18 2019, 10:56 am PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.