This climb gets three-stars not from the quality of climbing but more from the position and fun that it offers. The base of the climb is found tucked away all the way around the south end of Brogan Spire. Walk past three short bolted climbs until you find a notch with a few bolts that marks the start of the first pitch just to the left of a big cave at the base of the climb.
Note: You can also reach the cave by climbing the two-pitches of Barred Reality. It makes for a more fun climb than the short manky 5.7 start.
Make easy moves up a small notch past a few bolts. Pass by the two bolt anchor and keep moving up onto the ledge and into the obvious cave that gives the route its name. There is a single glue in bolt on the ground inside the cave window. Use this as a belay bolt for the start of pitch two.
Start out traversing left to the first bolt out of the cave. From there move up and trending slightly left. The second bolt is a dark color that blends in with the rock - try to spot it before setting out on the climb. It's in line with the first and third bolt. The overall climbing is easy but the bolts disappear as you make the final moves to stand atop the spire. The summit has lots of bolt options I'm guessing for multiple parties above although there probably isn't room for more than three maybe four people at the top.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.