This climb sits on the south side base of Brogan Spire and offers up one of the few approaches to top out on Brogan Spire. Look for a bolt line on vertical rock before the trail turns back left up and around where the start of the Cave Route can be found.
Make a few strong moves in from the right of the first bolt that require some strength and commitment. It's a bouldery start due to the eroded base of the climb through the first bolt. Once through the opening crux the climbing eases up significantly on low-angle highly textured rock to bolted anchors atop a large ledge.
This pitch is over before you know it but requires pulling through steep terrain on big holds. Enjoy another bouldery sequence through the two bolts using big holds. Clearing the two bolts gets you to a two-bolt anchor that can be used to bring up your second. Once together, walk towards the headwall of Brogan Spire and a bit to your right looking for the natural rock cave that you could fit a sofa or two in. Great place to hangout if you are so inclined.
Follow a bolted line up and slightly left from the cave. The climbing is easy but the bolts disappear as you make the final moves to stand atop the spire. Read the route description for the The Cave Route for more details on topping out Brogan Spire.
We did three rappels to get down. One from the top of Brogan Spire to the ledge below where there is a beefy two bolt anchor at the top of the ledge. Rap from this set of bolts in a left facing dihedral down to the cave. From the cave walk towards the edge of the face and find the bolted anchor you passed on the way up to rappel back down to the south side of Brogan Spire.
Pitch 1 of Barred Reality
Anchors at top of Pitch 1
The two-bolt second pitch of Barred Reality
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 8 2020, 9:56 am PDT
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