Brogan Spire sits near the top of The Marsupials ridgeline and can be identified based on its distinct spire or mini-tower aesthetic. While it doesn't look anything like a southern Utah desert tower, it does offer climbers an easy yet fun small-peak bagging adventure.
There are a variety of ways to work your way up through a multi-pitch climb to the top of Brogan Spire, as well a a few worthy single pitch lines that sit at the base of the area. This area is definitely worth the hike on busy days as you are likely to find few parties this far out in the park. Lace up your hiking boots and make it happen.
Get ready, you have a good hour long hike ahead of you to Brogan Spire. Cross the main bridge and take an immediate right heading east towards The Marsupials. Break off on the trail to Burma Road and follow the road to the base of Koala Rock. From Koala Rock follow a faint trail over to base of the north side of Brogan Spire.
If you are looking for climbs on the south side of Brogan Spire, walk along the base of the wall towards the river until you spot the shortest rock by Mini Half Dome (see image below). Scramble up and over a tight chimney-like chunk of rock and scramble down the backside slab. From the bottom of the slab, follow the base the rock east.
The Final pitch up the east side of Brogan Spire
View from the top of Brogan Spire
The notch for accessing the backside of Brogan Spire
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Nov 22 2019, 1:56 am PST
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The Petzl Sama is a good all-around harness for sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbs. It offers up low profile gear loops, good padding, and non-adjustable yet comfortable leg loops while still not being overly bulky or heavy. Great for beginners or experienced climbers.