Brogan Spire sits near the top of The Marsupials ridgeline and can be identified based on its distinct spire or mini-tower aesthetic. While it doesn't look anything like a southern Utah desert tower, it does offer climbers an easy yet fun small-peak bagging adventure.
There are a variety of ways to work your way up through a multi-pitch climb to the top of Brogan Spire, as well a a few worthy single pitch lines that sit at the base of the area. This area is definitely worth the hike on busy days as you are likely to find few parties this far out in the park. Lace up your hiking boots and make it happen.
Get ready, you have a good hour long hike ahead of you to Brogan Spire. Cross the main bridge and take an immediate right heading east towards The Marsupials. Break off on the trail to Burma Road and follow the road to the base of Koala Rock. From Koala Rock follow a faint trail over to base of the north side of Brogan Spire.
If you are looking for climbs on the south side of Brogan Spire, walk along the base of the wall towards the river until you spot the shortest rock by Mini Half Dome (see image below). Scramble up and over a tight chimney-like chunk of rock and scramble down the backside slab. From the bottom of the slab, follow the base the rock east.
The Final pitch up the east side of Brogan Spire
View from the top of Brogan Spire
The notch for accessing the backside of Brogan Spire
Previous Next
View a large version of the map.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 9 2020, 4:56 pm PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 72°F
Wind: North at 12mph
Humidity: 18%
Dewpoint: 26.1°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.