Rabbit Stew is a lower quality trad climb next to its sister climb Lycopodophyta in the Dihedrals. The two trad climbs are slotted between the bolted face climbs of Bunny Face and Captain Xenolith in the popular west end of the Dihedrals.
Whenever you see a lower grade climb rated with a "+" you know you are in for a treat. While the majority of the climb follows a small crack in the left facing dihedral, taking decent gear along the way, the start of the climb can shut people down who are in a 5.7 mindset. A lack of good holds while trying to surmount the classic Smith undercut start can be a bit tricky for the grade. Once you are established the climb is pretty straightforward in terms of following the crack and protecting with small gear. While the line is obvious the climbing isn't anything great. Near the top the crack widens to three inches and it's time to make a decision. There is a bolted anchor in the middle of the face to the left of the crack. Either leave the crack by stepping out onto the face under the anchor or remain in the crack and lean left to clip the anchors. The rock up high on the crack looked a little flaky so we opted to exit on the face.
This route isn't good. If you have trad gear and don't have any other options nearby then give it a go. But if you are looking for a fun 5.7 jump on Rabbit Stew to the right.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jan 23 2020, 4:56 am PST
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