A good climb at a low grade in the heart of the park means get ready get in line! Located at the far end of The Dihedrals before the blank face of the Prophet Wall. It’s a fun climb, but much like its partner to the left, Captain Xenolith, the harder moves are within the first few clips before easing off to classic Smith Rock knobs.
Make the easy moves to the first clip and then use the rail to move right. After clipping the second bolt either feel around right or head straight up to a big positive knob that will reduce the need to make multiple moves to the third bolt. Make the clip and head on your way up some fun easy climbing to chains. This climb is a good taste for what it is like climbing at Smith Rock. At a 5.9 rating, this climb still offers up small balancy moves down low that make it much harder than any 5.9 you would find in a gym.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jan 23 2020, 6:56 am PST
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The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.