A good climb at a low grade in the heart of the park means get ready get in line! Located at the far end of The Dihedrals before the blank face of the Prophet Wall. It’s a fun climb, but much like its partner to the left, Captain Xenolith, the harder moves are within the first few clips before easing off to classic Smith Rock knobs.
Make the easy moves to the first clip and then use the rail to move right. After clipping the second bolt either feel around right or head straight up to a big positive knob that will reduce the need to make multiple moves to the third bolt. Make the clip and head on your way up some fun easy climbing to chains. This climb is a good taste for what it is like climbing at Smith Rock. At a 5.9 rating, this climb still offers up small balancy moves down low that make it much harder than any 5.9 you would find in a gym.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 19 2019, 9:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.