A good climb at a low grade in the heart of the park means get ready get in line! Located at the far end of The Dihedrals before the blank face of the Prophet Wall. It’s a fun climb, but much like its partner to the left, Captain Xenolith, the harder moves are within the first few clips before easing off to classic Smith Rock knobs.
Make the easy moves to the first clip and then use the rail to move right. After clipping the second bolt either feel around right or head straight up to a big positive knob that will reduce the need to make multiple moves to the third bolt. Make the clip and head on your way up some fun easy climbing to chains. This climb is a good taste for what it is like climbing at Smith Rock. At a 5.9 rating, this climb still offers up small balancy moves down low that make it much harder than any 5.9 you would find in a gym.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.