An unmistakable and impressive slab ramp runs left to right up to a nice ledge and offers a great trad climb for new leaders. Given the low angle climbing and easy access, this climb usually has a party or two on it. Grab your trad rack
A crack on the back side of the slab offers plenty of opportunities for placing gear and jamming feet where needed although this climb doesn’t require a lot of jamming or crack technique. There are plenty of face climbing options and at times it felt contrived trying to keep a foot or hand in the crack, although there are some good jams along the way. Near the top the crack widens and having doubles within larger range cams (#3, #4) helps to ensure you don’t have to run this thing out. The ledge at the top has multiple bolted anchors for either moving up to the pitches above or rapping off. If you are continuing on up, Cry Babies offers the most memorable second pitch leaving the ledge.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.