Grab your trad rack. Located just left of Ancylostoma, this climb goes up a wide crack to the top of the block and shares anchors with Ancylostoma. The opening moves of the climb ascend an eroded base creating difficulties out of the gate to get on the rock. Trying to stay in the crack the entire climb will only make things harder, not to mention the need for multiple pieces of big gear needed through the top of the route. This doesn’t feel like the safest or best introduction to trad climbing or crack climbing for that matter. Save yourself some strife and climb it on top rope after leading Ancloystoma.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.