Located just left of Ancylostoma, this climb goes up a wide crack to the top of the block and shares anchors with Ancylostoma. The opening moves of the climb ascend an eroded base creating difficulties out of the gate to get on the rock. Trying to stay in the crack the entire climb will only make things harder, not to mention the need for multiple pieces of big gear needed through the top of the route. This doesn’t feel like the safest or best introduction to trad climbing or crack climbing for that matter. Save yourself some strife and climb it on top rope after leading Ancloystoma.
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 20 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.