Slab Happy is a classic delicate 5.9 Smith route. It sits as the first bolted route on the left hand side of the slabby face that makes up the main Table Scraps Wall.
This isn't your local gym's 5.9. The first thing you will notice is that the first bolt is pretty high up there and probably not reachable with your average stick clip. The climbing to the first bolt is mainly on low angle slab but all the moss off to the left of the route doesn't really fire up the stoke and confidence for the rock being well traveled. We climbed up more or less up the direct route to the bolt from the ground, just off to the right of the moss covered rock. After you clip the first bolt it's an easy low angle romp to the vertical wall where things become more delicate. The crux is within the middle of the vertical wall as you lock off on crimps and use high feet to delicately move up the wall. Be careful to stay near the bolt line, rock not far off the beaten path is suspect.
Overall a worthy warm up and good way to get your head in the game for the other climbs in the area. Even though the climbing feels hard for 5.9, it's all there and the lack of chalked up holds you find elsewhere in the park makes for some fun.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Sep 18 2019, 10:56 am PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.