Instant Replay starts tucked in a little cave to the right of Nice Guys Finish Last and works up along a thin crack to a two-bolt anchor, protecting with gear up to 1.5 inches. Scramble up easy climbing placing gear where you can before reaching the much cleaner, deeper, and more vertical crack midway through the route. While this is the crux of the route it is fairly straightforward and lasts a move or two before easing up again. The crack protects really well with less than 1-inch pro. A two-bolt anchor sits atop a detached-looking block and isn't in sight until you top out. The climbing is pretty straight forward and fun, making this is a good beginner lead on gear.
This route does not have rappell anchors so be prepared to walk-off by following a narrow gulley climbers right from the top of the right.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Nov 17 2019, 1:56 pm PST
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The Petzl Sama is a good all-around harness for sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbs. It offers up low profile gear loops, good padding, and non-adjustable yet comfortable leg loops while still not being overly bulky or heavy. Great for beginners or experienced climbers.