Instant Replay starts tucked in a little cave to the right of Nice Guys Finish Last and works up along a thin crack to a two-bolt anchor, protecting with gear up to 1.5 inches. Scramble up easy climbing placing gear where you can before reaching the much cleaner, deeper, and more vertical crack midway through the route. While this is the crux of the route it is fairly straightforward and lasts a move or two before easing up again. The crack protects really well with less than 1-inch pro. A two-bolt anchor sits atop a detached-looking block and isn't in sight until you top out. The climbing is pretty straight forward and fun, making this is a good beginner lead on gear.
This route does not have rappell anchors so be prepared to walk-off by following a narrow gulley climbers right from the top of the right.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 19 2019, 9:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.