This is a Smith Rock knob romping classic climb with a fun dihedral start that takes gear. People make the hike to the Spiderman Buttress to climb the ever classic Spiderman, but don’t take off without climbing Out of Harm’s Way. If you’ve never been to Smith but have heard of the knob and nubbin pulling style, the upper half of this climb is the best example of the unique Smith style.
Bring gear from .5 to 2 inches to climb the starting dihedral. There must be a variety of ways to climb this but I found staying in the dihedral and using face holds to the right as a great way to start followed by bomber hand jams the higher up the dihedral you go. Cam placements are straightforward. Once you exit the dihedral the knob and nubbin climbing begins. I can’t think of many other climbing areas where a 5.8 requires as much thought and precision pulling on knobs and nubbins. Don’t think you are going to run up this climb, the precise nature of the climbing is easy but requires deliberate and slow moves that ends at a nice small ledge. This climb is a gem.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Nov 12 2019, 7:56 pm PST
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The Petzl Sama is a good all-around harness for sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbs. It offers up low profile gear loops, good padding, and non-adjustable yet comfortable leg loops while still not being overly bulky or heavy. Great for beginners or experienced climbers.