Rated as a four-star climb in the Watts book, Sunset Slab seemed to lack the charm of most of the four-star recommendations by Watts. It’s a climb worth doing but doesn't leave you smiling ear-to-ear like a lot of other top climbs in Smith around the same grade (ahem...Lusty Lady).
Start near the southern end of Cod Rock up a lower angle northwest facing slab. Use the crack to climb up left of the first bolt before eventually traversing right to the third bolt. From there work your way up the bolt line using crimps and pockets along the way. The rock is covered in lichen and can you leave you guessing as to which is the best path between bolts. While the rock quality is good outside the lichen, the sequence of moves wasn’t very memorable to be deemed a classic.
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Last Updated on Jan 18 2021, 2:56 pm PST
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Current Conditions: Fair
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The Sterling Hollow Block is great at biting down on ropes when tying friction knots using a Prusik, Klemheist, or auto block. Its Aramid fiber construction helps resist abrasion and heat. Pony up a few extra bucks to have one hanging from your harness, you’ll end up using it.