While the holds are all there, this climb doesn’t offer up the most obvious path to the anchors. Enjoy technical movements on somewhat flaky rock that may leave your belayer wishing they had worn eye-protection. It’s not that bad, but it’s not as solid as Sunset Slab or Butter Knife.
The moment you step up and grab a hold of the first pocket to the clip the first bolt you will want to reach back left towards the arete. Beta Alert: Don’t do it! The majority of this climb stays well right of the bolt line using crimps and rails through technical moves and a few moments of high feet. A little more than halfway up you may find yourself slapping the left hand side of the arete but it won’t get you very far. Stay right of the bolt line again and fire up to huge pockets on sharp rock near the anchor. The ending of this climb was a lot of fun but the middle of it will make you work.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 8 2020, 7:56 pm PDT
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The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.