On the north facing wall sites two bolted climbs with Butter Knife hugging the right arete (Cure For Pain is on the left arete). While no move feels to go at 5.10c, there is a mix of movement and thoughtfulness that lends itself to a solid 5.10 rating. Enjoy a variety of different moves as you move on and off the arete up to the chains.
Climb a few small pockets up the first bolt before cruising up trending right towards the arete through the first few bolts. The first crux comes at a balancy sequence midway through the route that requires proper footing and balance to not barn door at the clip. The second and final crux comes two-thirds of the way through the climb after moving up past a large hueco out left of the arete. The rock quickly becomes sharp and juggy before reaching the anchor.
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 20 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.