On the north facing wall sites two bolted climbs with Butter Knife hugging the right arete (Cure For Pain is on the left arete). While no move feels to go at 5.10c, there is a mix of movement and thoughtfulness that lends itself to a solid 5.10 rating. Enjoy a variety of different moves as you move on and off the arete up to the chains.
Climb a few small pockets up the first bolt before cruising up trending right towards the arete through the first few bolts. The first crux comes at a balancy sequence midway through the route that requires proper footing and balance to not barn door at the clip. The second and final crux comes two-thirds of the way through the climb after moving up past a large hueco out left of the arete. The rock quickly becomes sharp and juggy before reaching the anchor.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.