On the north facing wall sites two bolted climbs with Butter Knife hugging the right arete (Cure For Pain is on the left arete). While no move feels to go at 5.10c, there is a mix of movement and thoughtfulness that lends itself to a solid 5.10 rating. Enjoy a variety of different moves as you move on and off the arete up to the chains.
Climb a few small pockets up the first bolt before cruising up trending right towards the arete through the first few bolts. The first crux comes at a balancy sequence midway through the route that requires proper footing and balance to not barn door at the clip. The second and final crux comes two-thirds of the way through the climb after moving up past a large hueco out left of the arete. The rock quickly becomes sharp and juggy before reaching the anchor.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 8 2020, 9:56 am PDT
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The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.