Found on the far right hand side of the Phoenix Buttress, the Phoenix starts behind a boulder in a shadowy corner. The first bolt is high off the ground but the climbing to reach it is easy. If you have any hesitations, go grab a stick clip.
Use the large flake and move left to the first bolt. The climbing gets much more technical about halfway up the climb. The holds become small and the climbing becomes technical which can feel harder than a 5.10a found at other crags. Make the few thin moves that will get you to a nice rail before using jugs to get to the last bolt. From there the climbing eases up to the anchors which explains why there isn't a bolt for the last 15-20 feet.
First high bolt
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 19 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.