One of the best and most popular 5.10's at Smith Rock located on the left side of the Phoenix Buttress.
Similar to the other climbs in the area, pull through jugs for the first few bolts before the climbing becomes a bit more technical. The middle portion of the climb remains fairly easy but really fun as you work up right to left through a shallow dihedral of sorts. The cruiser climb comes to an end near the top where some finesse and style is needed to work through a small bulge before romping along to the anchors. It's really a one more wonder type of climb that often times trips people up due to how easy the climbing is leading up to the final bulge move. We've seen the crux completed in a variety of ways including the ever sexy spread eagle with full loud grunt.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 19 2019, 9:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.