One of the best and most popular 5.10's at Smith Rock located on the left side of the Phoenix Buttress.
Similar to the other climbs in the area, pull through jugs for the first few bolts before the climbing becomes a bit more technical. The middle portion of the climb remains fairly easy but really fun as you work up right to left through a shallow dihedral of sorts. The cruiser climb comes to an end near the top where some finesse and style is needed to work through a small bulge before romping along to the anchors. It's really a one more wonder type of climb that often times trips people up due to how easy the climbing is leading up to the final bulge move. We've seen the crux completed in a variety of ways including the ever sexy spread eagle with full loud grunt.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.