Located in the middle of the Phoenix Buttress buttress just to the right of JT's Route. The first bolt feels a bit high but like other climbs in the area, the climbing is easy on big holds to the first bolt. The crux comes getting to the second bolt if you decide to use crimps moving up to the clip. An alternate approach to the second clip uses bigger holds moving around to the left arete and clipping out right to the second bolt. The alternative approach is a bit easier but also risks a nice swing if you were to blow the clip.
After the second clip the climbing uses some smaller and medium sized pockets moving up the face. Some of the pockets that are small in diameter turn out to be sinkers that you can fit full fingers. At the top of the vertical section the angle of the rock lessens but the slab felt unnerving given the spacing of the bolts. If you like slab climbing, it will be a breeze.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.