Located in the middle of the Phoenix Buttress buttress just to the right of JT's Route. The first bolt feels a bit high but like other climbs in the area, the climbing is easy on big holds to the first bolt. The crux comes getting to the second bolt if you decide to use crimps moving up to the clip. An alternate approach to the second clip uses bigger holds moving around to the left arete and clipping out right to the second bolt. The alternative approach is a bit easier but also risks a nice swing if you were to blow the clip.
After the second clip the climbing uses some smaller and medium sized pockets moving up the face. Some of the pockets that are small in diameter turn out to be sinkers that you can fit full fingers. At the top of the vertical section the angle of the rock lessens but the slab felt unnerving given the spacing of the bolts. If you like slab climbing, it will be a breeze.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 20 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.