Lycra is typical Smith Rock climb on nobs, nubs, and small crimps up a vertical face that turns low angle near the top. It starts out left by stepping on a small ramp and gaining the vertical face from the anchors on top of a giant belay ledge after climbing King Nothing.
Pull onto the face of the climb and use small holds most of the way. Similar to other Smith climbs of this style, the small nob that you use for your hands is likely to become your next foot. The crux of the climb felt down low making a sequence back and forth across the bolt line on small holds. The day we climbed it, it was sub-40 degrees in morning shade so not being able to feel our fingers made this feel more like 5.10c. Either way, it isn't a gimme of a climb. Worthwhile climb.
Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Oct 16 2021, 3:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Wind: SE at 8mph
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
The Sterling Hollow Block is great at biting down on ropes when tying friction knots using a Prusik, Klemheist, or auto block. Its Aramid fiber construction helps resist abrasion and heat. Pony up a few extra bucks to have one hanging from your harness, you’ll end up using it.