This is a description of the first pitch only
This is a good warm-up climb in the area and nice beginner combo climb with Time to Shower just to it's left.
Similar to how Time to Shower has it's quirks, this climb has a first bolt fairly high off the deck. The good news is that there are jugs leading up to the first bolt which makes it very doable. The crux comes right around the second bolt where some of the more obvious large holds disappear for a moment. We found some nice crimps to pull on that made for smooth sailing. The climbing through the first three bolts aren't anything to write home about but the jugs after the third bolt up to the anchor make for some pretty fun climbing. Nice pockets and mini-huecos allows for high feet and big reach climbing with ease which was a lot of fun and a good warm-up for the day. The last bolt before reaching the chains seemed pretty silly since it sits just a few feet at most from the anchor but maybe it plays into the 5.12+ extension on the upper headwall.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 8 2020, 7:56 pm PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Wind: NW at 10mph
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.