This is a description of the first pitch only
This is a good warm-up climb in the area and nice beginner combo climb with Time to Shower just to it's left.
Similar to how Time to Shower has it's quirks, this climb has a first bolt fairly high off the deck. The good news is that there are jugs leading up to the first bolt which makes it very doable. The crux comes right around the second bolt where some of the more obvious large holds disappear for a moment. We found some nice crimps to pull on that made for smooth sailing. The climbing through the first three bolts aren't anything to write home about but the jugs after the third bolt up to the anchor make for some pretty fun climbing. Nice pockets and mini-huecos allows for high feet and big reach climbing with ease which was a lot of fun and a good warm-up for the day. The last bolt before reaching the chains seemed pretty silly since it sits just a few feet at most from the anchor but maybe it plays into the 5.12+ extension on the upper headwall.
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 19 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.