One of the best moderate routes that is easily accessed in the park offers up great movement on good holds with decent rock. A classic line at Smith that sees a lot of traffic just up from the also popular and classic Blue Light Special.
Reach the first bolt using fairly large holds, or stick clip it if you aren't sure about it. Fun pockets and body positioning get you through the second and third clip before a crux sequence of small rail crimps and fun footwork. The holds are all positive with fun movement moving back and forth. Up high a few more fun holds get thrown in, including a small flake that makes you wonder how it still hangs on the wall, as well a great pinch with a thumb catch. Feels like a gym setter couldn't offer up much better movement and variety of holds that this climb does.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 9 2020, 4:56 pm PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Wind: North at 12mph
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.