One of the best moderate routes that is easily accessed in the park offers up great movement on good holds with decent rock. A classic line at Smith that sees a lot of traffic just up from the also popular and classic Blue Light Special.
Reach the first bolt using fairly large holds, or stick clip it if you aren't sure about it. Fun pockets and body positioning get you through the second and third clip before a crux sequence of small rail crimps and fun footwork. The holds are all positive with fun movement moving back and forth. Up high a few more fun holds get thrown in, including a small flake that makes you wonder how it still hangs on the wall, as well a great pinch with a thumb catch. Feels like a gym setter couldn't offer up much better movement and variety of holds that this climb does.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Sep 18 2019, 10:56 am PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.