Papillion is located just to the right of Super Slab on the Red Wall and is a worthy beginner sport climb at Smith. It is well bolted and climbs up varied good rock yellowish rock to a two bolted anchor.
Start out by hopping up on shallow heucos before reaching easier big holds. The route moves back and forth on either side of the bolt line on big holds for the first half of the climb before moving higher up and slabbier terrain that requires balance between big hand holds on low angle rock. Keep moving up through yellowish rock before reaching the anchors which sits at the bottom of a vertical looking blank headwall. This is a good climb for beginning lead climbers.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.