Moscow offers up another 5.6 route from the base of the Red Wall to the top of the formation that requires a trad rack. While many hold Moscow in high regard it doesn't feel as fun and straightforward as Super Slab but is still worth doing. The climb takes cams mainly from .5 - 4 inches.
Pitch 1: The start of the climb is on the far right side of the Red Wall before you reach the switchbacks of Misery Ridge, just to the right of Chouinard's Crack. Start in a vertical left facing dihedral and climb up blocky formations. You will first reach a mini-ledge before moving up below a large block that you can either move to the left or right of. The route line isn't obvious and with lichen covered rock to your left and broken rock to your right it's not totally obvious which way to go. Stay right and jam a steep'ish dihedral before skirting left to ledge where you can setup a belay.
Pitch 2: Move back to your right and climb the obvious dihedral. Move through a broken section of the dihedral before you reach a second broken section that offers up a small ledge to belay from. This small ledge is directly below where the crack in the corner opens up to become wide (4-inches).
Pitch 3: Jam the wide 4-inch crack with your right foot while smearing on the face with your left. Wrestle your way up the wide dihedral until you get some good face holds to use to pull up on a large ledge. From their trend right on a large ledge and sniff your way to the top of the formation. It was nice to have two #4 cams for this section but not necessary.
From the top, wrap up the rope, put your hiking shoes on and follow a faint trail around left to a low angle rock where you walk back up to your right to the top of Misery Ridge.
General Moscow route
Start of Moscow
Top of Moscow before walk-off
General direction of walk-off
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.