Dirty Pinkos

Area: Red Wall

Route Description

Dirty Pinkos is yet another multipitch climb that lets you top out on the Red Wall through 4 pitches of meandering climbing. This is a really popular route based on the easier grade and its adventurous feel. While the climb is novel mainly due to the pitch 3 traverse, the actual climbing and flow of moves aren't all that great in our opinion. The rock has cleaned up considerably and felt pretty solid but there are still areas that are looser or a bit crumbly.

Pitch 1: Climb a bolt line up the same starting slab as Super Slab and A Stroke of Brilliance. The climbing starts of the left side of the slab and tops out on a ledge with two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb up into a jumble of blocks before exiting onto the face and making some moves through what felt like the crux of the climb before reaching a semi-hanging belay.

Pitch 3: This is the traverse pitch. A unique climbing experience heads right from the anchor making face moves out of sight of your belayer into a shallow dihedral. Entering and exiting the dihedral are the crux moves of the pitch before trending slightly up and right to a two bolt anchor. Bolts are spaced conservatively but it still wouldn't be a fun fall for either leader or follower on this pitch. Bring your cord or HollowBlock just in case you end up in air. Most of the climbing felt less than vertical but not sure where you'd end up if you fell.

Pitch 4: Climb up easy low angle slab before navigating up and over a short steep section. Sit on top the Red Wall and belay off a two bolt anchor. This pitch has some chossy/sandy rock, mainly in the vertical section at the top of the route.

Descent: It is recommended you walk off the route by sniffing the top of the Misery Ridge Trail and walk back down the east side switchbacks to the base of the climb. It's quick and easy. From the top of the climb head away from the wall and walk uphill. Find some faint trails and trend right (north) to the top of Misery Ridge before hiking back down. Rappelling this route could be an option but it would be an adventure both in getting to bolted belays and navigating the parties behind you. Don't do it.

Route Images

Other Red Wall Routes