If you've climbed Five Gallon Buckets then you probably have a good guess for what you are in for...more hueco climbing! Nine Gallon Buckets is another very popular route in the gazer area of the Morning Glory Wall. It starts up on crimps to a large hueco before making the first clip but then turns into a hueco romp, minus a single crux in the middle of the route.
This is a long route to the left of Cool Ranch Flavor, that trends leftward for most of the route. There are two sets of anchors one will encounter before reaching the final set of anchors at the top. Even so, this is a single pitch climb that can be done with 70-meter rope. We haven't tried it with a 60m rope so not sure about that one. The majority of the climb makes fun moves through huecos that feel better and easier than Five Gallon Buckets for most of the way. The crux comes after the first set of anchors and requires a bit of a footwork setup and smaller holds before getting back to the huecos you'll love. The final "pitch" climbs straight up through smaller but very positive pockets to the chains. The climbing isn't hard after the crux but the pump from the length of the climb will be felt.
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.