There are only good things to say about Magic Light, it is a true classic of Smith Rock. Located in the heart of the park on the right side of the Morning Glory Wall, this climb sees countless ascents and it's likely you'll be getting in line to climb it, waiting as a part of the viewing party that typically congregates in the area. The allure of the climb comes from a combination of bigger sporty moves through big holds, with two traverse cruxes that require balance and strength. There are a lot of big holds on the climb but the length of the climb and crux finish give the climb its grade.
Magic Light is the second bolted climb to the right of a small tree on the left hand side of the right hand portion of the Morning Glory Wall. Is that confusing enough? If you're wondering, just ask someone or look for a heaving chalked line that runs slightly right to left for the entirety of the climb on vertical and somewhat overhanging rock.
Start up a few thin holds that reach nice solid jugs. Work your way up positive holds before encountering the first of two cruxes that forces you to move out left above your last bolt before finding a secure clipping stance. Continue up larger holds until a second crux that requires strength moving out left again before the last bolt up to the chains. After climbing this route it seemed that taller climbers will likely have a slight advantage through most of the climb, especially at the last crux. Keep pushing through the pump, the falls are clean and the climbing offers up a nice break from the small technical climbing typically found in the park.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.