This is the most well known climb in the park based on the ease of access and the huge huecos you climb through. The large huecos make for huge holds and a fairly obvious line to follow, making it much more beginner friendly than other climbs at Smith that tend to be small pebble pinching routes.
The first bolt is a ways off the deck but huge holds and easy climbing make it a non-issue. Pull through the huecos and find a hidden bolt along your way inside a hueco. Once near the top the climbing becomes a little less straight forward but still easy. Clip the chains and celebrate completing the iconic climb before turning it over to the line waiting behind you.
While the giant huecos make for big holds and fun climbing there are better 5.8 climbs in the park (Lusty Lady). The holds can also get quite greasy in warmer weather given the amount of traffic this route sees. Be courteous and don't setup a top rope for your party of eight.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Sep 22 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.