This is the most well known climb in the park based on the ease of access and the huge huecos you climb through. The large huecos make for huge holds and a fairly obvious line to follow, making it much more beginner friendly than other climbs at Smith that tend to be small pebble pinching routes.
The first bolt is a ways off the deck but huge holds and easy climbing make it a non-issue. Pull through the huecos and find a hidden bolt along your way inside a hueco. Once near the top the climbing becomes a little less straight forward but still easy. Clip the chains and celebrate completing the iconic climb before turning it over to the line waiting behind you.
While the giant huecos make for big holds and fun climbing there are better 5.8 climbs in the park (Lusty Lady). The holds can also get quite greasy in warmer weather given the amount of traffic this route sees. Be courteous and don't setup a top rope for your party of eight.
Previous Next
Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.