This is likely the most well known and well traveled area at Smith Rock based on some of the classic lines that litter this area as well as the ease of access. Walk by this wall on any day when it isn't raining and you are likely to see climbers somewhere. This area sees less traffic during peak hours of heat on summer days when its faces get pummeled by sun and becomes too hot for climbers to bare. Outside of hot days you'll find people on almost every line and others waiting to get their chance to tackle the classics.
Easy to find and see from the parking lot, the Morning Glory Wall is first main area within the park. Cross the bridge and pass the broken looking Shiprock. Make the short hike up to the base of the climbing area once you see the composting toilet. The left side of the area is most famously featured with large huecos that climb up the famous Five Gallon Buckets.
Morning Glory Wall from across the river
Lots of huecos and climbers in the area
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 19 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.