No Golf Shoes is located directly to the left of the honeycombed pillar that is the start of Tuff It Out. The first bolt is low off the ground and serves more as a precautionary bolt for the climber and belayer being that the climb starts on top of a deck of terraced rocks.
This climb can be started in two ways. The first is the legit 5.10c version which climbs up directly to the first bolt from the ground using pockets to swing over to small holds before eventually finding larger edges. The first move gives the route it's 5.10c rating and wasn't easy. The alternate start comes into the first bolt from the right after shimmying up the dihedral to the right of the bolt line. While this entrance may feel less strenuous, it still felt weird.
Once you clip the first bolt and find better holds to the left the climb actually becomes really enjoyable. Use nice edges and good feet to work your way up under the mini roof you need to work your way through. It is a very shallow roof that will leave you up and left of your last bolt but on good big holds. It felt a little run out between these bolts but the climbing was easy. The rest of the route mixes in jugs and a crack that finishes up on a few low angle moves to the anchor.
This is a great climb on The Fourth Horseman that is blemished by a not so fun start.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jan 28 2020, 11:56 pm PST
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