A great line that climbs the center of the Fourth Horseman formation with good movement through a bulge before finishing on incuts and edges. Start climbing on a honeycomb section of rock at the base of the climb that sits between the wall and a giant boulder behind you. Use big holds through the first few bolts before a mix of a side pull, crimps, and a lock off get you a horizontal seam before the start of the bulge. Clip the face of the bulge and pull over onto a fun finish of classic Smith Rock incuts on solid rock. The the more strenuous climbing takes place through the first half of the climb, but the finishing face keeps you on your toes until the anchor due to the pump for us mere mortals.
A great climb that felt more flowy and fun then the more hyped Headless Horseman
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Sep 22 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.