The Headless Horseman offers up a balancy climb for almost a whole 35 meters (starting from the ground) on the far left hand side of the Fourth Horseman. Start on a low angled and almost terraced corner that you can protect with cams if needed. The climbing is easy as you reach a ledge with bolts, use an extended draw here before heading up on a more blank looking face that leads to an arete. Follow the bolt line up and right towards the arete. The balancy crux comes at clipping the last bolt before reaching the arete. Turn the corner on the arete and use a fun pocket to get back onto the face. From there the climbing stays on you, although it is a bit more straightforward until you reach the fixed anchors.
This climb is good but felt awkward at times. The holds make for an insecure style of climbing that was slow moving.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jul 27 2021, 9:56 am PDT
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The Sterling Hollow Block is great at biting down on ropes when tying friction knots using a Prusik, Klemheist, or auto block. Its Aramid fiber construction helps resist abrasion and heat. Pony up a few extra bucks to have one hanging from your harness, you’ll end up using it.