The Headless Horseman offers up a balancy climb for almost a whole 35 meters (starting from the ground) on the far left hand side of the Fourth Horseman. Start on a low angled and almost terraced corner that you can protect with cams if needed. The climbing is easy as you reach a ledge with bolts, use an extended draw here before heading up on a more blank looking face that leads to an arete. Follow the bolt line up and right towards the arete. The balancy crux comes at clipping the last bolt before reaching the arete. Turn the corner on the arete and use a fun pocket to get back onto the face. From there the climbing stays on you, although it is a bit more straightforward until you reach the fixed anchors.
This climb is good but felt awkward at times. The holds make for an insecure style of climbing that was slow moving.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Sep 22 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.