You don't hear many people talk about this climb compared to other classics in the park and we're not sure why. It’s one of the recommended climbs by grade in the beginning of the Watts Guide, offers an amazing position with safe and clean falls at the crux, and has amazing movement throughout. Another backside classic that the hoards of people clogging up the Morning Glory Wall likely won’t make the hike to find.
Climb Innocent Victim or Benedictine Punk to access anchors above a notch behind the main line above Holier than Thou. Stand at the bottom of the notch below the headwall to belay. Although there are no bolts for the belayer to clip into, the position is safe and the moves to the first bolt are easy. For that matter, the moves through the first seven or so bolts are really easy. Tons of knobs and big holds on lower angle rock makes the beginning of this climb easy but fun. But don’t get lulled into a false sense of confidence. The top quickly steepens and the climbing becomes sustained for the last third of the climb. Work through bigger moves to big pockets until a somewhat perplexing finish that requires committing on smaller less-postive holds that connect to big holds between bolts. The fall line is clean and safe, so give it a rip!
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 19 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.