You don't hear many people talk about this climb compared to other classics in the park and we're not sure why. It’s one of the recommended climbs by grade in the beginning of the Watts Guide, offers an amazing position with safe and clean falls at the crux, and has amazing movement throughout. Another backside classic that the hoards of people clogging up the Morning Glory Wall likely won’t make the hike to find.
Climb Innocent Victim or Benedictine Punk to access anchors above a notch behind the main line above Holier than Thou. Stand at the bottom of the notch below the headwall to belay. Although there are no bolts for the belayer to clip into, the position is safe and the moves to the first bolt are easy. For that matter, the moves through the first seven or so bolts are really easy. Tons of knobs and big holds on lower angle rock makes the beginning of this climb easy but fun. But don’t get lulled into a false sense of confidence. The top quickly steepens and the climbing becomes sustained for the last third of the climb. Work through bigger moves to big pockets until a somewhat perplexing finish that requires committing on smaller less-postive holds that connect to big holds between bolts. The fall line is clean and safe, so give it a rip!
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 8 2020, 9:56 am PDT
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The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.