The right most climb on the blocky pillar in the area (it has its own anchors). It's graded 5.9 but that first bolt will have you questioning your ability on how hard 5.9 can really be. You'll need a stick clip with some decent range to be able to clip the first bolt from the ground but it's worth it if you have any hesitations. It's too high to blow and not get hurt. Now that you are thoroughly scared...time to jump on the climb.
Gaining the first bolt isn't too hard and the route offers up a variety of options for reaching the anchors. Staying on the face felt a little harder than using the rounded arete up higher on the climb. The climb has a little bit of everything - knob romping, arete climbing, and small pockets. The climbing eases considerably after making your way two thirds up.
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Smith Rock Weather
Last Updated on Jun 5 2024, 4:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Temp: 40°F
Wind: NE at 4mph
Humidity: 93%
Dewpoint: 37.9°F
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
Not feeling confident getting to that first bolt? Or maybe the first bolt is a sizable distance off the ground? Whatever the reason, we recommend using the Trango Beta Stick Evo as way to stick clip the first bolt(s) to keep you safe and climbing. It collapses down into a reasonable size, making it easy to carry in your pack all the while being really easy to use.