The right most climb on the blocky pillar in the area (it has its own anchors). It's graded 5.9 but that first bolt will have you questioning your ability on how hard 5.9 can really be. You'll need a stick clip with some decent range to be able to clip the first bolt from the ground but it's worth it if you have any hesitations. It's too high to blow and not get hurt. Now that you are thoroughly scared...time to jump on the climb.
Gaining the first bolt isn't too hard and the route offers up a variety of options for reaching the anchors. Staying on the face felt a little harder than using the rounded arete up higher on the climb. The climb has a little bit of everything - knob romping, arete climbing, and small pockets. The climbing eases considerably after making your way two thirds up.
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Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on May 21 2019, 5:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.