If you are somewhat of a masochist then Toys in the Attic might be a good option for you. It's not that it's overly hard or sketchy, but out of everything you could climb in the park it's probably lower on most people's list. In fact, after we climbed it and mentioned it to a few people who are familiar with Smith Rock, they had no idea what we were talking about. Safe to say people aren't lined up to jump on it given it is a trad route that keeps you in a crack and has a somewhat awkward and heady finish traversing downwards 15-20ft to a bolted anchor. You might even give it the ever wondrous 5.9+ rating.
Toys in the Attic is located in the back of a wide chimney area just past the popular Double Trouble on the Combination Blocks. It climbs up a crack in the back left corner that starts out lower angle and works its way up to slightly over hanging near the top of the roof. The bottom section is piss and smells a lot like it as well. Enjoy jamming up and using some face holds up the low angle shit-filled crack. The rock soon turns to vertical with ample spots for hand jams and gear. The placements are fairly good but the rock not too far from either side of the crack doesn't look amazing, try and stay in and close to the crack as much as possible. The crux of the climb comes as the crack goes from vertical to slightly overhanging while the width opens from fist to mini off-width. The good news is that near the top of the crack you don't need to stay in the crack and can lie back with good feet stemming.
Once at the roof move left to the hand crack that runs right-to-left and slightly downwards. You'll find good foot chips and edges to work your way along the crack making fun traverse moves while also being sure to place plenty of gear for your follower. We opted to stay high above the bolted anchor and then step a few feet down directly onto it. The movement in the upper portion of the vertical crack and the traversing hand crack make this route worth climbing, but the first half of the climb is fairly garbage. Be sure to think about your follower by placing gear near the roof in the traversing hand crack and sewing up the traverse as much as needed. A fall without proper protection would result in a swing and possibly a collision with some rock. We opted to belay from the top of the climb to provide some added safety buffer in the chance of a fall/swing.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Apr 8 2020, 11:56 am PDT
Weather by NOAA
Current Conditions: Fair
Wind: North at 6mph
Your 5-Day Forecast at a Glance
The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner or belay device not being properly oriented. It’s simple and easy to use, perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing.