Double Trouble is a line that begs to be climbed. The first thing you will notice are the two large stacked blocks that the route climbs, which gives the area of Combination Blocks its name. The second is the beautiful chalked up arete that makes up the climb. The line is vertical to slightly overhanging in some spots and requires a bit of finesse, balance, and strength to make your way to the chains.
You can tackle this climb a few different ways. One is to start in the alcove while using small/smeary feet while slapping up the arete with your right hand, occasionally using your right foot on and around the arete for balance. This offers up the cleanest falls. The other way up is straddling the arete, which require more balance and less strength, but also means falls could be a bit weird swinging around left onto the face of the climb.
This is a well bolted climb that rewards what can feel like committing moves to the next bolt. The crux comes after a huge rest at the top of the first block where you need to surmount a mini-roof and pull yourself onto the second the block. From there, a few more cruxy moves will get you to smooth sailing near the top of the climb.
Rack all of your draws on your left side and go for it. This is a great line.
Smith Rock State Park, OR
Last Updated on Jul 20 2019, 3:56 pm PDT
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Given Black Diamond’s reputation for strong and durable hard goods, we decided to give their 9.9mm rope a try as our go to gym rope. The rope is priced right and works great out of the box but early signs of wear in the gym make it hard to give it the nod as a preferred gym rope.