The Best 5.10 Sport Routes at Smith Rock

Smith Rock is home to countless moderate routes in the 5.10 range. Our list of the best moderate 5.10 sport climbs in the park are made of lines that feel moderate in difficulty that offer up fun climbing on good rock. Some of the climbs we picked are undeniably classic while others are less talked about but in our mind are still great.

Sunday, January 13th, 2019

How to Build Your First Trad Rack

While the sky is the limit for the different types of gear you could accumulate, it’s smart to start with the basics that you will use on almost any trad climb. Cams and nuts are going to be the obvious starting place for building out your rack. More specialized protection could be nice to have and play around with, but necessity should be driving what you have in your rack. Building your trad rack isn’t cheap so focus on what you need before you start falling for shiny objects.

Sunday, November 25th, 2018

Mad Rock Flash 2018 Review

Mad Rock decided to give the Flash 2.0 an upgrade with the release of the Flash 2018 model. Having been a fan of the Flash 2.0 for years as a solid gym shoe, it was hard to believe that the shoe could get much better while staying at the same price point, but Mad Rock did it.

Monday, September 17th, 2018

Smith Rock Spring Thing

Calling all Smith Rock climbers: The 2018 Smith Rock Spring Thing will be held on April 28th, 2018 as volunteers converge to get their hands dirty rehabilitating trails and helping maintain the park. Volunteers will be part of groups that work within different areas of the park helping build trails and restoring existing trails.

Saturday, April 7th, 2018

La Sportiva Katana Lace Review

If you’re looking for a single shoe that will provide high-performance across many types of climbing then the Katana Lace is the shoe for you. Having climbed a variety of routes at Smith, I’m still impressed with how well these shoes are able climb on varied terrain. Edges, nubbins, slab, and pockets – this shoe can do it all.

Sunday, February 11th, 2018

Bend Rock Gym Review

With something for every type of climber, the Bend Rock Gym offers up a great facility for the hardcore boulderer, those looking to sharpen lead climbing skills, or the adventurous family looking for new activities. It’s hard to ask for much more out of a climbing gym.

Friday, December 29th, 2017

Mad Rock Flash 2.0 Review

The Mad Rock Flash 2.0 is a great gym shoe. Unlike most beginner shoes it offers a bit of a down-turned profile, all-around performance, and remains comfortable. All this for a shoe that comes in near $80 means you can’t go wrong with this as a gym training shoe. Mad Rock discontinued the shoe in 2017 so we’re hoping they release a similar model.

Tuesday, August 15th, 2017

Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym Review

The Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym is a great shoe. I’d give it a 5 out of 5 rating if we were only judging based on crack climbing or smearing ability. When it comes to more technical edging or even a route with any sort of mildly consistent technical climbing, other shoes provide better performance and confidence. That said, it’s always nice keep a pair on hand.

Monday, June 26th, 2017

Climbing The Columns at Skinner’s Butte

Climbing at The Columns in Eugene definitely isn’t big wall climbing, but if you find yourself in town with some time to spare and your climbing gear handy, it’s a great place to get some short trad leads in.

Sunday, June 4th, 2017

Trango Crag Pack Review

I bought a giant bulky Jansport backpacking pack over ten years ago off the discount rack at REI. It was huge, had extra pockets and straps attached all over the outside of the pack, and it was uncomfortable. I didn’t climb at the time, but figured it would give me good options for backpacking and […]

Sunday, April 16th, 2017